The plastic is on the inside and is what holds those (thin) pieces of metal that grip the bolt head together. Not sure what they were thinking in the first place with using plastic components on a socket advertised for difficult nuts. Sounds like they've had enough warranty claims. It appears that they have changed and the sockets are now entirely metal, no plastic at all (that I could see from the package anyway). I was at Sears today and I looked at the GripTite sockets again.
And I do wonder how convenient their lifetime warranty really is, when I actually need to use it. Although I agree, I do worry about the plastic portions of it. I've had a decent experience with my grip tite sockets so far. It was only then, and with two cheater bars, one on each side, that we were able to pop the nut free. It was at this time that the guy in the bay next to me offered up his Extractor. I tried the other side and had the same results, so I stopped before I did too much damage. With the breaker bar, the 6-point started to round the nut even more. After noticing this, and with only a little bit of rounding of the edges I hunted down a 6-point, which didn’t prove to be any better.
I tried to maintain the socket flush and apply torque perfectly perpendicular to the bolt axis, but couldn’t stop it from wanting to cock and start to round the edges. Using the 12-point with the breaker bar did. The impact gun didn’t do any damage to the nut or bolt head. After a couple of hours to let the PB Blaster soak in I lifted the car and hit both the nut and bolt head side with a few half-minute-long spurts each, with out any success. I was initially using a 12-point impact socket with the impact gun. I think a better question is this: What sockets were you using? I need to have these sockets before I tackle the front struts.Īlso, should I replace the stock flange nuts that are slightly rounded with new OEM nuts or is there a harder steel nut that I can pick up at the local parts store? I'm sure that the nut being over-torqued from the factory had something to do with it, but I'd rather no have to deal with this in the future if I need to remove the struts again. I've never heard such a loud pop before from breaking loose a nut/bolt.Īnyways, my question is what socket did he give me? He told me and I can't for the life of me remember anything about it! It didn't seem like one of those spiral-fluted extractors that I see online it seemed to look just like any other 6-point stocket, but the flat surfaces had little nubs. He grabbed another breaker bar and, together, POP! It finally gave and came loose. I was at a loss until another guy at the hobby shop walked over and offered the use of his socket. As soon as I saw the socket move and cock slightly at an angle I stopped and inspected.
It was the use of a breaker bar that started to round the edges. I tried two different air ipact guns with no luck. We've got several finance options to help you spread the cost, covering spends over £99*.While removing the rear struts on my '08 Subaru to replace the springs, I started to round off the strut-to-swingarm nuts.on both sides! The nuts would not budge at all, even after a liberal coating of PB Blaster a couple of hours before the job. *Finance available subject to credit assessment, terms and conditions apply, you must be aged 18 + and a permanent UK resident, please spend responsibly. Needed it n it worked easy to use would say wish had more in the pack but cant fault itĮasily did the job, Easy to use felt very secure ok. Great relief to be able to simply screw in the replacement handle: phewĭid exactly what I needed it to do. Seems strong, good threat and worked well on UPVC handle screw which had rounded off.
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